Uluru - a tangible tranquility

Heart of Australia is sun scorched, arid, uninhabitable outback. Why then tourists from across the world throng to witness this barren beauty? Well, the answer lies in the geological wonders this primal part of world holds. 

Kata Tjuta in the horizon

Lake Eyre - Kati Thanda, saltwater lake famed for pink water when wet

Veins of Earth?

A break from the blue coastline, this red heart is known for Uluru - a mammoth 300 million years old monolith/ island mountain, rising unceremoniously from a mundane plain terrain and considered sacred by the custodians of this area - the Anangu people.

Another dramatic array of exceedingly large rocks form Kata Tjuta. In the horizon, these two formations appear like two elephantine silhouettes against a flat horizon.

Kata Tjuta and Uluru - captured from Dune View Point at Kata Tjuta

Our trip to Uluru was mostly to strike this destination off our bucket list. As our flight touched the tarmac of a small airstrip, we realised minimalism is the way of survival in such inhospitable climate. The airport was only as large as it could be to accommodate the mandatory - a conveyor belt, a cafe, a security check-in, a waiting lobby by the single gate to accommodate a hundred passenger at a time. Uluru, in the horizon beneath an overhead sun, appeared small, unimpressive, dark - is this all we are here for, we thought with unease. 

Airport

Uluru from airport 

A long queue at the modest reception of "Outback Hotel and Lodge" didn't feel welcoming when sun was blazing down at 1.30 pm. The exterior appearance wasn't promising either. But that was the most decently priced part of Ayer's Rock Resort at a staggering $450 per night. Yet, the tapping of electronic key and stepping into the room was Harry's 'I love magic' moment in Goblet of Fire. A lush vibrant red carpet, well made bed with crisp bedding, cleanly folded fresh towels in a contemporary bathroom, immaculate kitchenette were concealed behind the deceptive exteriors. As we grew familiar with swimming pools, police, fire and fuel stations, town centre, and other lodges, we figured this was intentionally done to blend with nature, and stay humbled.

As for Uluru, in few hours we'd be reminded not to judge a book by its cover; only on turning its pages the undug riveting regaling recitals are revealed. 

That evening we freshened up and drove to the Sunset Point in our little rental car. We tapped our 3-day Kata Tjuta National Park pass and the boom-barrier bar lifted to allow us in. Over an hour we watched the rock metamorphose into a panoply of hues from orange to red, peach, and brown - a tangible tranquility our only companion.

The following day, we drove to the Sunrise Point - a different smoother side of the rock with soothing ripples lit up to life in the soft slanting rays of sun at 5.30 am. 

Passing by Sunset Point on our way to Sunrise Point

But what really instilled a deep relationship and reverence for this sacred landform was circumnavigation by cycle. The 15- Km flat track was comfortable and marked by signs of remarkable water holes, gorges, and valuable insights into the endemic flora fauna. Information boards explained the 40,000 years old saga of struggle for survival of the nomadic inhabitants of the land, their beliefs, and folk tales. As we soaked these in, we memorised each fold and bend, ripple and cave to map them with our earlier views from far. There is a no-photography zone to ensure people witness that part only in person - that's the most sacred part of Uluru; publishing image of that surface is forbidden. Each turn told a tale of colours, history, and survival. Trees by water holes, kiosks at intermittent rest areas, brief walks to marked spots blotted out the fatigue from cycling of two and half hours. 

Unaware cycling closes in summer and there were just a couple of days left before closure, it's sheer serendipity that we got the opportunity. Anybody planning for activities should check the timings. 

There are Segway Tours available for those interested.

From cycle stand to Mala Carpark

Water hole

Caves

Ripples 

The cycling track - Uluru photography is prohibited here

Kantju Gorge - we fortunately experienced the silence, arriving moments before the tour group

Scaly texture 

Tuckered out we were, but exhaustion didn't deter us from driving to Kata Tjuta, admiring the formations from Walpa Gorge and Dune Viewing Point. Clumps of vegetation, dwarfed by hostile climate, surprisingly flowered and lent colours to the pathways. Nature never fails to take us aback with its resilience!

First close glimpse of Kata Tjuta

Resilience 

Back at the lodge, we ran a warm bath - all solar powered - and rested well. Another circumambulation by car and photoshoot at Sunset Point later we hopped onto the resort's bus to Field of Light - a sweeping view of swathes of land lit by 50,000 solar lights, and installation designed by Bruce Munro.  It's the second largest in the world after the one at California by the same designer. The installation has been extended to remain till 2027 due to its immense popularity. A 30-minute walk in the bucolic setting was an immersive experience - a world away from the usual bustle we are accustomed to. With that we concluded our second day - more illuminated and connected than the day before.

9

Photoshoot at Sunset Point

Circumambulation by road from Mala Carpark

First glimpse of Field of Light

On the last day, we took another road trip round the rock before departing for the airport. 

Circumambulation by road - Passing by Sunset Point

Rested a while at Cultural Centre

Walked to the water hole

Caves harbouring trees and life near water hole - a micro ecosystem 

A bird of the bushes

Brushed by the last ( and also the first) stop Mala Carpark 

Shopped at Town Centre

Back in Sydney, this retrospection is not just a memetic recast, but a story of history we experienced - oldest living history of evolution of earth and humans. The enormity is not confined to the visible 348 m above the ground, but in the fact that it spreads for at least another 2.5 Km below! As for time, our entire lifespan is an inconspicuous dot in the larger scheme of things. Is it a wonder then we made obeisance just the way we touch the feet of our elders in reverence?

Dona, Sydney, November-24